Sunday – a day of rest

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Sunday – a day of rest – not for us it wasn’t! We decided to tour some of the better known sites around Bombay but before that  a quick technical point:

The email alert does not distinguish videos from pictures so if you are looking at the email not the website you may not see the videos. In future there will be a prompt to click on the video but for the ultimate experience – open the blog!

(There were two videos in the Super Saturday post so you may want to go back a day and take a look at them – especially the street performer!)

So – to the tour …

First port of call was the famous Mahalaxmi Dhobi Ghat, a huge outdoor laundry village. The people work there and live there. The place was a hive of industry, laundry arriving, being washed, dried, spun, sorted, packed and shipped back out, much of it on sturdy locally manufactured Hero bicycles.

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As we were walking around the laundry we heard singing which turned out to be coming from a small church room, I could have stayed all day but Leishia was worried I might be converted (not sure what to).

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We went from the laundry to a nearby Fishing village. Leishia had read about the village before; apparently the fish stocks are severely depleted so not much fishing goes on – which probably explains why all the boats were on their moorings.

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We decided to go to the Crawford market primarily to compare it to markets we had seen in St. Petersburg and Guangzhou (infamous as the birthplace of SARS). I made a mental note to stick to vegetarian fare!

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Wandering around the market I came across a guy deftly butchering a chicken on a board resting on top of several crates of chickens. Take a look…

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Made me think about what the other chickens were saying….

“Hey Pete, where’s Fred?”, “No idea, the door opened and he was gone in a flurry of feathers!” , “Isn’t that him up there?” , “I think it is!” , “He’s lucky to get out of here” ,

cue butchery, “Oh No!” , “Fred, Fred!” , “Pete – hide!”.

After the market we went to a small temple, it was extremely ornate but surprisingly quiet. There were quite a few rules:

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Leishia said there was no way she could comply with rule 7 “Do not touch the idols” because she has her own irresistible idol! Guess who – answers on a postcard please.

After that came the walk home. Sunday in Mumbai seems to be a day of street cricket. I watched this guy get it spectacularly right:

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then the assembled throngs watched this guy get it spectacularly wrong:

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Along the way we spotted this neat little idea:

Hero bicycle

I might steal it and embellish our Pashley’s when we get back to Cyprus!

So that was our day – laundry, fishing, chickens, temples and cricket – splendid!

Super Saturday

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Super Saturday started off with a romantic touch at breakfast:

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and ended with a romantic touch at dinner:

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In between we went to the Western India Automobile Association to arrange our vehicle insurance and to the train station to book our tickets to Goa. The train station is housed in a fantastic building as is the Post Office which we visited later:

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Opposite the Post Office was what appeared to be a pigeon sanctuary, a very ornate structure covered, unavoidably I suppose, in pigeon droppings. And here they are (the pigeons, not the droppings – although I’m sure the more observant viewer will pick those out too). Click the picture to see the video:

Later in the day we were treated to an impromptu street performance, reminded me of Covent Garden. Click the picture to see the video:

Then in a quiet moment I developed a working draft of the Mumbai horn algorithm:

Mumbai horn algorithm

But the highlight of the day was dinner at the Radio Club. I could wax lyrical about the setting and the faded grandeur but I’ll save you that. The reality is that the members and staff create a great atmosphere  – the members are from old Bombay families and professions and the staff are attentive and professional (and took great care of us). We ate well and listened to Zend as he spoke about his family and his bakery. A very special evening.

Day One

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India at last, it only took sixty years! So since this is our first “on the road” post it probably makes sense to outline our plan:

our plan

Right, that’s that done.

We arrived last night and took up residence in, aptly enough, The Residency Hotel which is already proving to be a restful haven (thank you Sumeet for the recommendation). We booked our first six days in Mumbai with the intention of clearing our vehicle (Elsie) through customs and getting away to the Pushkar Camel Fair. That little plan came crashing to the ground when our shipping agent informed us that the shipping line had not loaded Elsie at Southampton because of “contractual obligations”. Elsie is now en route to Chennai instead which means a) we don’t have to rush around Mumbai dealing with Indian bureaucracy and b) we get to go on trains. Brilliant!

So we now have six days of peace in Mumbai, top priority today was to get a local SIM (number is +91 9930 934 681) and a couple of internet dongles. Smith at the local Vodaphone shop was very helpful – and very tall!

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Smith insisted on completing the necessary forms and was quite creative when he filled in Leishia’s nationality:

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Anyway we managed to endure the idiosyncrasies of the process and after a couple of hours became the proud owners of a shiny new microSIM and two dongles – which is probably good given the local post services:

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Armed with our new technological devices we wandered off for a spot of sightseeing, the Gateway to India:

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and the Taj hotel, very recognisable after it’s world wide coverage in 2008:

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Eventually we strolled back towards our hotel and came across the Yazdani restaurant and bakery:

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The tea was sweeter than the biscuits and the host was sweeter than the tea. His name is Zend Meherwan Zend, he opened the bakery in 1953 and is still there. He took a bit of a shine to Leishia:

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Anyway he has invited us out tomorrow for swimming and dinner at the Radio Club. It will be great to spend an evening in the company of a man who seems to be something of an institution in these parts.

Food

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Not sure what we are most excited about – the people, the scenery, the culture, the food, maybe something else will grab us. Anyway the food is definitely up there hence the food page!

Plan B then!

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Plan A was to take our little dog Titch with us and travel overland from London through Europe, Turkey, Iran and Pakistan to India, spend two months exploring and then make the return trip. Plan A was well advanced but died a death when the Indian government banned the importation of dogs except for people returning to India permanently. So now Titch is going to stay with his Mummy and we are going to India without him – Plan B.

The Indian government legislation is apparently targeted at couriers who were importing trophy dogs every week. The solution is definitely a sledge hammer to crack a nut and impacts a lot of other people. We have had to completely change our plans for the sake of the sweep of a legislator’s pen.

But … that is where we are – long live Plan B.