For our overseas readers – PG stands for parental guidance, this post is definitely not for the prudish reader!

The drive from Lucknow to Khajuraho was another epic but we’re getting used to those! Khajuraho is a Unesco world heritage site so we knew it would be impressive but we didn’t realise quite how impressive. There are several sets of temples all of which were built around 1,000 years ago and “re-discovered” in 1838 by a British Army captain.

The grounds around the Western temples:

and two of the temples:

The temples are most famous for the elaborate sculptures which cover every available space. There are so many fantastic sculptures, imagine the lower half of the temple above (up to the top of the balconies) totally covered in sculptures:

But more than the sheer number it is the quality and craftsmanship that is astounding:

There are five categories of sculpture at Khajuraho – deities; family, attendants and divinities; female heavenly bodies; animals; and scenes of daily life. This final category includes domestic scenes, teachers, dancers and also the sculptures which make Khajuraho really famous – the erotic sculptures:

Orgies were OK:

As was paedophilia:

Even bestiality is portrayed:

This God is quite the acrobat although this is apparently not a sexual scene per se but rather a specific “Yantra”, a means of subsuming the body to the act of worship:

We loved this elephant, he seems both amused and embarrassed:

And in this sculpture everyone is getting in on the act:

These erotic sculptures account for only 10% of the Khajuraho sculptures but, not surprisingly, they steal the show. Khajuraho has been the highlight of the trip so far, fascinating history and a beautiful site.

As we were leaving Khajuraho the little girl in white below stopped us and asked us to come to her shop, we couldn’t refuse!

We left Khajuraho heading for Orchha, lots of interesting sights along the way:

The place above was irresistible to us so we drove across country to get to it:

It turned out to be the tomb of one Sawai Singh from the 18th century. Here is Leishia, the Lady of the Manor:

We arrived at Orchha planning to stay the night and to see the fort and the temples but were surprised to see a huge Police presence as we arrived. Little did we know that we were rolling into this sleepy town on the very night that Lord Ram’s marriage to his bride Sita was to be celebrated, basically the highlight of the year. Lucky us!

We found a room with a super view of the fort from the terrace:

and walked into the town. We met a lovely family and shared a cup of chai with them:

 This was Harris his little son and relatives his sister

 and his sister-in-law preparing dinner

The town was absolutely packed! Loud music, thousands of people and an electric atmosphere. Lord Ram is said to sleep in Orchha, he certainly didn’t sleep last night, the party was amazing. Most of the revellers had arrived for the night complete with their tiffin boxes and their bedrolls.

It was obviously a big event but most of the symbolism was lost on us so we took a couple of pictures, made our excuses and left.

This morning we drove down to the river where most of humanity seemed to have congregated after the party:

Finally we left Orchha and drove to Agra. So tomorrow we will be up at dawn to see the Taj Mahal on Leishia’s birthday. I couldn’t have planned it better if I had tried – which I didn’t!

Right that’s it, I’m off to practice that yantra!